On last Saturdays monthly, 10 p.m. to 1:30 a.m., catch a menu called Stephen’s Saturday Night Speakeasy. Cocktails are $9, all bites are $2. I preview a week before barman Stephen Winchell debuts his fall menu. I dig the Sketchy Sesna, a play on a Paper Plane built on Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao, a pre-Prohibition triple sec that resembles Campari. The drink reads crisp, bitter and citrusy, a fantastic aperitif. We try also the Solstice, unfortunately watery from being served on the rocks, leaving mint from the Fernet Leopold to sing over winter spices. Winchell says he plans to serve it up in the future. Chef James Africano’s kitchen misses not a beat with six quality items, from a deeply savory slider with onions and Pueblo chilies to a perfectly cooked crispy chicken wing over soy caramel. Our favorite is the Italian beef sandwich, big on meaty flavor and bigger on paprika from the pepperoni. It’s all well-executed and thoroughly impressive.